The Patios of Cordoba
Tucked away down alleyways and backstreets, the Patios found in Cordoba, Spain, offer a beautiful escape from the blazing sun on hot Spanish afternoons. Each is a private oasis of multi-colored pots spilling over with flowering fruit trees and plants, filling the cool air with the scent of geraniums, jasmine, and orange blossom. Many patios harbor colorful fountains that splash and gurgle, echoing off the cool, hand-painted tiles, mosaics, and wide, arched porticos.
We have the Romans to thank for the patios of Córdoba. Córdoba was founded by General Claudius Marcellus between 169 BC and 152 BC as part of Rome’s expanding influence in Spain. The city saw significant growth but was sacked by Caesar after it picked the wrong side of a civil war and proclaimed its allegiance to Pompei.
Bruised and beaten by a vengeful Caesar, Córdoba later became a favorite building site for the new emperor, Augustus, who made it a Colonia Patricia. As part of Augustus’ expansion, he built a wall around the city and distributed ample land to war veterans, who soon began a housing boom.
In this Roman Córdoba, new constructions followed Roman tastes, and houses were built around a central courtyard with wells or fountains in the middle to collect rainwater to help deal with the hot, dry climate.
Other Influences
Muslims captured Córdoba in 711 AD and continued to expand on the patio tradition, often adding entrances to the street and filling these central spaces with local plants to create more lush, relaxing spaces. As in much of the Mediterranean, new influences are seamlessly blended with ones that came before. This Muslim-influenced Roman patio design lives on as a central feature of Córdoban houses, large and small.
Christians added their stamp on the city when they captured it in 1236 and constructed the Castle of Christian Monarchs, but the central patio design remained.
Feria de los Patios
In 1918, Córdoba’s town hall initiated the annual patios festival, awarding the most enchanting space a prestigious prize. Aside from a brief pause during Spain’s 1936-39 Civil War, the event remains one of the highlights of Córdoba’s cultural calendar, with roughly fifty private residences opening their doors each May. These patio spaces are so important that UNESCO officially protected this cultural heritage in 2012.
The sumptuous 15th-century Palacio de Viana takes center stage during the festival, historically serving as Spanish royalty’s residence. The sprawling palace’s thirteen patios and gardens are laden with a fragrant array of plants, flowers, and trees, each a tribute to meticulous design.
Cultivating the garden took centuries. For instance, the Patio of the Oranges was the palace’s entryway in the 15th century, and the Patio of the Columns, reminiscent of the Alhambra, was added in the 1980s as a venue for events and celebrations. A walk through these aromatic, romantic spaces offers an opulent glimpse into a bygone era.
Next, you’ll explore Cordoba’s many private patios. Each is an individualistic artistic statement by their owners, who are often present to share details about their courtyard’s flora, design, and history. Some spaces even feature live flamenco guitars and local singers. Not surprisingly, the privilege of owning such an extraordinary home is also a great source of pride for these owners, who genuinely beam with pride when they show you around.
Having a bad day is hard when your front yard is a UNESCO-protected paradise.
