Caffè Hungaria: The Hungaria Bar
Many of us have experienced European cafes on our travels. The Hungaria Bar is different.
Caffè Hungaria has operated for over 70 years in a quiet, upscale neighborhood outside old Rome. Established in 1945, Hungaria began as an homage to another famous Mediterranean cafe in Budapest called New York Coffee.
History of The Hungaria Bar
During World War II, the institution became famous for creating an upscale menu catering to wealthy American soldiers with local fare and Hungaria’s version of the American hamburger. This Italian version of the American classic came to be known as the “Completo” because it came with just about everything on it-onions, egg, pickles, cheese, and an assortment of delicious sauces. So naturally, the Yanks couldn’t get enough.
Soon Hungaria’s doors were open until midnight, seven nights a week. Unheard of in 1940s Rome. The news spread and Hungaria became a popular scene on Sundays, serving the faithful from the church across the street. Parishioners would greet their neighbors after service, walk across the street to pick up a newspaper and make their way to Hungaria for a post-mass aperitif and light lunch outside (not to mention the full bar inside.)
Sunday afternoons at Hungaria became a neighborhood tradition, and the restaurant responded with the “rite of pastarelle.” The pastarelle is a soft, sweet, dipping biscuit made from simple ingredients. It’s a classic confectionary tradition from the Molise region in southeast-central Italy. In addition to pastarelle, Hungaria waiters would roll out trays overflowing with cupcakes, mont blanc, profiteroles, pies, cakes, and heavenly, light pastries stuffed with diplomat cream.
The Hungaria Bar Today
In 2017, Hungaria closed its doors and reopened under new Management by restaurateurs Antonio and Massimo Cola and film producer Federico Scardamaglia. They aimed to restore Hungaria to its former glory. They began with a multi-million dollar facelift designed by the well-known Junio Cellini and Paola Niolu architectural studio. Floor-to-ceiling windows wrap around the stately double-door entrance, which opens to a gleaming pasty display that runs almost the length of the building and harkens back to Hungaria’s early fame.
The new Management’s efforts are paying off. The restaurant bustles day and night and is now a favorite gathering place of the international glitterati. Even patrons from the church across the street have returned to gather at Hungaria on Sundays. So if you’re in the mood for an excellent cup of coffee, to-die-for pastries, and a little upscale people-watching, there’s no better place in Rome to find all three.
